Crease patterns: Diagonal shift variants

I’ve previously posted several crease patterns for my diagonal shift designs. Since posting those crease patterns, I designed a diagonal shift variant where the top and bottom halves of the paper form tubes of different widths and folded several models based on that design. Here are some crease patterns for a couple versions of diagonal shift variants. The dimensions on these don’t quite match any of the models I’ve folded, but they at least show the approach I used.

First, the single diagonal shift variant:

Diagonal shift variant 300x154 Crease patterns: Diagonal shift variants

Diagonal shift variant

The bottom half of this crease pattern is identical to the crease patterns I posted before. Just above the middle, the diagonal lines only go partway past the middle of each gore, and the top section forms a narrower tube. This crease pattern gives something similar to the central part of this model.

These designs can also be combined in a couple ways. One option is to mirror the diagonal shift element vertically, giving a double diagonal shift pattern like the one in this vase:

Double diagonal shift variant 300x251 Crease patterns: Diagonal shift variants

Double diagonal shift variant

Another other option is to also shift the top diagonal shift section over by 8 gores (half the width of the paper, excluding the overlap), which gives something like this model:

Double diagonal shift variant 2 300x251 Crease patterns: Diagonal shift variants

Double diagonal shift variant 2

The math behind these designs is a good bit more complicated than I enjoy doing by hand, so I’ve set up spreadsheets to automatically do most of the math for me. I haven’t written about that aspect yet, but I might do that at some point when I have time.

Two upcoming shows!

I’m very excited to announce that I’ll be participating in two origami shows this summer!

1. FAVA Folding Festival

The FAVA gallery in Oberlin, OH has been hosting the FAVA Folding Festival since 2008, organized by James Peake. The info for this year’s show isn’t online yet, but the show will be open from May 11 until late July. I will have about 6 pieces in the show, including selections from both my Intersections and Diagonal Shift series.

2. Surface to Structure

Surface to Structure: Folded Forms will be exhibited at the Cooper Union in New York City. This was also the site of the first origami exhibit in the United States, in 1959. The show will be open June 19 – July 4 and is curated by Uyen Nguyen with co-advisors Sok Song and Patsy Wang Iverson. I will have one piece from my Diagonal Shift series in the show.

Test models: Diagonal Intersections

Bisected diagonal shift 274x300 Test models: Diagonal Intersections

Bisected diagonal shift

This test model is a combination of my two recent series: Diagonal Shifts and Intersections. Even though this piece worked decently as a test model, it doesn’t work quite well enough yet for me to use this in a real model. Hopefully if I do another test fold, I’ll be able to fix some of those problems.

I’ve done a lot of engineering to figure out how to fold my recent series, but I haven’t shown much of the process. This time I took some photos of my first couple test folds to share. I started with some of the measurements I’ve previously used for the diagonal shift models. Creating the flat plane of the model is basically just folding down a rhombus to a single line. My first attempt was to fold the central rhombus into a waterbomb base:

Diagonal intersection draft 1 back 300x211 Test models: Diagonal Intersections

Diagonal intersection draft 1 back

Diagonal intersection draft 1 front 300x224 Test models: Diagonal Intersections

Diagonal intersection draft 1 front

This design looks great from the front, but the back won’t work for the full model. The large triangle sticking up in the back will get in the way of the curved portion of the model. A good start, but not quite useable.

Then I started trying to figure out how to get rid of that extra triangle. I started by inverting the waterbomb base so the triangle was sticking out the front of the model instead of out the back. Then I squash-folded the triangle to flatten it against the front of the model:

Diagonal intersection draft 2 back 300x222 Test models: Diagonal Intersections

Diagonal intersection draft 2 back

Diagonal intersection draft 2 front 300x217 Test models: Diagonal Intersections

Diagonal intersection draft 2 front

This design is much better from the back – there’s no extra paper between the two flaps along the central diagonal. That means I should be able to use it for more complex models. The problem is that the front is very messy-looking: the extra paper from the central rhombus is visible and not especially nice to see there.

In my third test fold, I combined the best parts of my two first test folds. I squash-folded the central rhombus, but I also hid the extra paper on the back side of the model:

Diagonal intersection draft 3 back 300x222 Test models: Diagonal Intersections

Diagonal intersection draft 3 back

Diagonal intersection draft 3 front 300x225 Test models: Diagonal Intersections

Diagonal intersection draft 3 front

This final design is what I used in the full test model (photo at the beginning of this post). I combined it with the diagonal shift approach I’ve already written about. Combining the flat part and the curved part is still a challenge, but it’s one I’m working on. I’m hoping to fold at least one or two full models based on this design, but it may be too complicated to turn into a full series.

Test model: Organic bowl

Organic bowl 1 300x223 Test model: Organic bowl

Organic bowl

It’s probably fairly obvious that this model is a departure from my normal folding style. Almost all of the folding I’ve done recently has been highly mathematically, precise, and planned. I have folded more organic pieces before, but it’s been a long time. Even those pieces were fairly structured and mathematically based.

This is probably first piece I’ve ever folded without making any actual measurements, and it was completely an experiment. I started by tearing a vaguely round-ish piece of paper from a large scrap I had sitting around. I used a compass to estimate some sizes and divisions and a ruler as a straightedge, but the rest was all free-folded. The flat base is in the center of the paper. I knew there would be a lot of extra paper around the edges, but I didn’t know what the outer sections would look like until I was mostly done folding. I did several rounds of wet-folding and taping the paper into various shapes until I got the paper into a shape I liked.

Organic bowl 2 300x224 Test model: Organic bowl

Organic bowl (view 2)

I had a lot of fun folding something completely free-form, and hopefully I’ll try it again sometime. I’ve been wanting to do some more organic designs for a while. Eventually I’d like to develop a folding approach somewhere between the purely mathematical and the purely free-form, but that’s something I’m still figuring out how to approach.

Organic bowl 3 300x225 Test model: Organic bowl

Organic bowl (view 3)

New work: Diagonal shift with a size change

Diagonal shift variant 213x300 New work: Diagonal shift with a size change

Diagonal shift with a size change

This piece is a return to my diagonal shift series, which I took a short break from. I used the same diagonal shift variant element as in my most recent two pieces in the series. This time, instead of using two diagonal shifts to transition from a wide cylinder to a narrow one and then back to a wide one, I only used one diagonal shift. The sizes are aligned so the outer edge on one side is an unbroken curve.

One of the challenges I often run into in designing models is figuring out how my sketch will actually look in three dimensions. Since I have to figure out all the dimensions of the model before I do any folding, it’s very important that my sketch has the proportions I want. But in this piece, the change from a 2D sketch to a 3D folded model changed how the proportions look more than I expected. In the sketch, the top and bottom halves looked more evenly balanced; in the model, the bottom half has a good bit more volume and more visual weight. Even if this piece didn’t look quite like I expected, that makes it more of a learning experience for me than folding something that works exactly how I expected.

New Work: Painted Vase

Painted vase 215x300 New Work: Painted Vase

Painted vase

After spending a long time folding pieces mostly in neutral colors, I decided I needed a little more color in my work. I decided to experiment not just with color contrast but also with texture. The white near the top is color of the unpainted paper, the black is painted a flat color, and the purple is dripped/blended to add texture. It’s challenging to get smooth blending in the acrylics on paper. The paint dries very quickly, so I had to work very quickly to get the colors to actually blend together.

In this piece, I also varied the texture of the model itself, which I tried several years ago in my pleated and corrugated vase and diamond vases. The corrugated folding style in the lower part of the vase adds more interest and dimensionality to the simple vase shape.

This piece is mainly a test of a couple new ideas for now. I’m starting to explore ideas for my next series. This idea could become a series, but I’ve also still got a couple other ideas I’m considering.

Origami greeting cards

Cards all 300x194 Origami greeting cards

Cards: full set

A month or two ago, I ordered greeting cards with photos of my origami from Moo, and I’m finally getting around to posting the photos. Designing the cards was very easy, and I’m happy with the quality. I picked out a few of my favorite models that were correctly proportioned to fit on the card. Of course, my name and website are on the back to make it easy for people to find me.

Card front back 300x225 Origami greeting cards

Cards: front and back

For now, I just bought a small set of cards (25 cards) to see how the process works and so I can use them. Depending on exactly what my upcoming origami plans are, I might buy more soon to sell. Now I just need more reasons to mail cards!

Cards vertical 300x178 Origami greeting cards

Cards: vertical designs

New work: Four-part intersections bowl

 

Four part intersections 300x256 New work: Four part intersections bowl

Four-part intersections bowl

I recently posted photos in progress of a piece I have been working on, and here is the finished piece. This piece is a return to my Intersections series from last year, and the form is adapted from my three-part vase. For more on this piece, see my recent post.

Work in progress: Four-part intersections bowl

Since I’m currently working on folding a multi-piece model, I decided to post some photos in progress to show how the design and folding process all come together. This piece will essentially be a continuation of my Intersections series from last spring. The design process started in November with a sketch of a possible top view of a model. I sketched quite a few other ideas that day, including a few I’ve already folded and some I’m still planning to fold.

Initial sketch 300x224 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Initial sketch

Since I’ve folded quite a few pieces in this series already, I essentially knew from the time I started sketching how I would approach folding these pieces. The one part I needed to double-check was folding the concave 90-degree turn in the middle two pieces. I did a test-fold from a post-it note to make sure I knew how much extra paper I needed to make the turn.

Test 90 deg turn 225x300 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Test fold of a 90-degree turn

After that, it was time to start actually designing. I made a detailed sketch and worked out all the math so I could cut the paper into the correct size rectangles. If you look closely, you’ll see that I use a combination of inches and centimeters. Perhaps surprisingly, that actually simplifies some of the math compared to just using one set of units. I can calculate most of the dimensions using the same sort of math I explained in my tutorial on designing curved-crease models.

Final sketch 219x300 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Full sketch, version 1

Here are the primary tools I use: a ruler (I actually have five rulers of different lengths and use all of them on a regular basis), a sharp tool for scoring the paper, a cardstock template that I use to score the curved folds (I cut a new template for each model), and a ball of used tape (this is how much tape I’ve gone through since mid-December).

Tools 300x225 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Tools of the trade

I decided to fold the tallest piece from my design first and started scoring the straight folds and folding along the scored lines.

Piece 1a unfolded 282x300 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Piece 1, version 1: Unfolded

The base folded exactly how I had planned and how I’ve folded many similar designs.

Piece 1a base partly folded 300x225 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Piece 1, version 1: Partly folded base

Piece 1a base folded 300x225 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Piece 1, version 1: Folded base (inside view)

However, I ran into problems when I got to the top half of the vase. I had forgotten that having the top of the vase flare out would require extra paper, so there wasn’t enough paper there to make things work correctly. Since I added extra creases trying to figure out how to fold the top, there was no way to salvage that piece of paper and turn it into a cleanly folded final piece.

Piece 1a top folded 300x225 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Piece 1, version 1: Folded top

So because I had to start over with the folding, I decided to re-design in such a way that the vase didn’t flare out at the top. The new shape is very reminiscent of one of my first pieces in the series, folded just over a year ago. I tweaked some of the other dimensions as well. For these designs, I have to be careful that the radius never gets smaller than 1/3 of the radius at the widest point and that the radius at the base is at least 1/2 of the largest radius. Otherwise, the folding gets much more complicated.

Final plans 223x300 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Full sketch, version 2

This time, the folding worked much better. If you look closely, you can see that the piece still has a lot of tape from gluing and wet-folding; I’ll go back and remove that before taking a picture of the final design. There’s also a popsicle stick taped to the top edge to hold it straight while the paper dries.

Piece 1b back 216x300 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Piece 1: View of curved side

Piece 1b folded angle 224x300 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Piece 1: View of flat sides

I’ve also folded the second piece, which has an L-shape. I ran into a few problems here getting all the layers of paper to fit inside correctly near the base, but fortunately I was able to make it work with a few extra folds.

Piece 2 L 235x300 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Piece 2: Side view

Piece 2 top 300x267 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Piece 2: Top view

The two pieces fit together nicely. They look better standing with a small gap in between; if I try to put them too close together, the little bulges and curves in the paper become too obvious. Of course, leaving a gap was part of my original sketch. So far, I’m happy with how these pieces have turned out.

Piece 1 2 223x300 Work in progress: Four part intersections bowl

Pieces 1 and 2

I’m working on the third piece now, and hopefully I’ll have time to fold the fourth soon. I’m looking forward to seeing how the finished piece looks!

New Work: Floating Diagonal Shift

First, thanks to Ann of All Things Paper for featuring my work on her website! Ann has a lovely site on a wide range of paper artwork and crafts, with lots of exciting projects and ideas.

Floating diagonal shift 211x300 New Work: Floating Diagonal Shift

Floating diagonal shift vase

This piece is a continuation of the diagonal shift series I have been folding over the past several months. Here I used two modified diagonal shifts with a narrow central section separating the top and bottom halves. The separation between the two large sections creates a slight illusion that the top half is floating, like the divided vases I folded recently.

The paint pattern is designed such that the two halves would align if the two halves of the vase were connected directly on top of each other. I like the combination of the two metallic colors, similar to what I used in a recent piece.

Even though I do all the design work before doing anything with the paper, it’s always exciting to see how the folded model comes out looking slightly differently than I expected based on a 2D sketch. The color pattern here came out a bit more tribal-looking than I would have thought, especially before I folded the paper. Often the things I didn’t expect are what inspire new ideas and push my designs in new directions.